Thu | Aug 17, 2017

Milan Fashionweek: Where youth ruled

Published:Monday | February 29, 2016 | 2:00 AM
A model wears a creation for Roberto Cavalli women's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection.
A model wears a creation for Gucci women's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection.
Fashion designer Peter Dundas, acknowledges the applause after the presentation of the Roberto Cavalli women's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection.
Fashion designer Alessandro Michele acknowledges applause at the end of the presentation of Gucci women's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy on Wednesday, February 24.
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MILAN (AP):

Premier Matteo Renzi opened Milan Fashion Week for the first time, signalling a fresh government focus on the strategic centre of Italian fashion.

Putting the emphasis on youth, Italy's youngest premier posed near Milan's Duomo cathedral Wednesday with a host of emerging and newly established designers who, in recent years, have given new impulse to Milan's fashion runways.

Renzi has indicated that he wants to better showcase and unify Italy's coveted design and fashion industries, encompassing also footwear, handbags, and eyewear in a yet-undefined initiative.

Also joining the premier at lunch were some of Milan's mainstays, including Giorgio Armani, Donatella Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Ermanno Scervino,

as well as the head of the Milan Fashion Chamber Carlo Capasa and CondÈ Nast creative director Anna Wintour.

But the first day of women's wear previews for fall-winter 2016-17 belonged to young, if established, talent, with Alessandro Michele previewing his collection at Gucci and Peter Dundas showing his first women's cold weather wear looks for Roberto Cavalli. Both designers took the helm of major Italian fashion houses last year, representing a generational shift.

Some highlights from Wednesday's shows:

GUCCI CHANGE

Alessandro Michele's latest Gucci collection opened like a box of confections full of frothy surprises.

In the year-plus since he took over as creative director, Michele has made pretty and frilly centrepieces of the Gucci wardrobe, with Nicole Kidman and Julianne Moore among those spotted on red carpets in Michele's more romantic creations.

In this collection, long, diaphanous dresses flowed from an embroidered silk asymmetrical off-the-shoulder bodice or finished in a boa rainbow. Ruffles were no longer only an accoutrement, but the very architecture of the looks, from a tiered black ruffle and lace number, with Michele's trademark snake winding up the neckline, to a layered red ruffled cape.

One dress exemplified Michele's aesthetic: a sheer aqua gown with puffy, princess sleeves and golden belt that had its femininity toughened with athletic wear accents, a panther sequin logo on the bodice and No. 25 on the back.

Ultra-feminine pink and aquamarine created the air of a 1950s housewife out on the town in some of the softer looks, including a mini-length furry coat, while architecturally puffed shoulders updated jackets from the Gucci trench to a leather bomber with an edgier feel.

Amid all that eclecticism, guided by what Michele described in notes as "a principle of connection and heterogeneity," perhaps most surprising was the more prominent return of some old standards, including the double GG logo, albeit in non-standard apparitions like baby blue, the horse-bit print on a day skirt, and pretty suits with contrasting lapels or cuffed trousers.

In a sign of the times, private security with sniffer dogs checked out guests arriving at the Gucci venue in a disused customs railway depot.