Sat | Sep 23, 2017

Jewish passover zucchini

Published:Thursday | April 21, 2016 | 4:00 AM
AP 4Matzo bread is a delicious substitute for traditional pasta noodles in this rethinking of a classic lasagna
AP With this dish you can satisfy vegetarians without breaking the hearts of the die-hard carnivores.
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Let's say that most of the folks coming to your place for the Passover feast are vegetarians. And let's say that you want to cater to them without breaking the hearts of the diehard carnivores whose mouths water at the very thought of pot roast. Is there a centrepiece dish that will make everyone happy? Yes. As long as your vegetarians can tolerate dairy, this 'lasagna' is a winner.

Passover forbids the eating of most foods made with flour, which is why this recipe calls for whole matzos (an exception to that rule) in place of lasagna's noodles. Matzo turns out to be a perfect stand-in. Thin and square (they're usual six- or seven- inch squares), a whole sheet of matzo is a tailor-made bed on which to layer other ingredients. It also absorbs flavours beautifully, holds its shape when baked, and browns nicely in the oven.

I've paired the matzo with zucchini, which loses its watery blandness and gains a spring-like assertiveness once it's been shredded, salted, squeezed and sauteed briefly with onions and garlic. The zucchini is then combined with my cheating version of a cream sauce. Typically, that would be a bechamel milk or cream thickened with a roux. That's too much work. It's much easier simply to use a food processor to whiz together cottage cheese, milk, eggs and cream cheese. The result is a sauce as creamy and delicious as a bechamel without any of the gummy flour taste that can mar the classic sauce.

The matzos need to be soaked in some of the cheese mixture to soften them slightly before baking. To do so, stack them in a deep container that isn't much wider than the matzo itself. I used a square brownie pan and rotated each matzo's place in the stack every so often to make sure they all were evenly soaked. This is a way to counteract the fact that the liquid sinks to the bottom half of the container.

Once you set the matzos in a rectangular baking pan, it'll take two of them side by side to form a single layer.

If your matzos are seven inches square, they'll overlap a bit lengthwise, even as they fall slightly short of the pan's width. Not to worry. The filling will indeed ooze out slightly beyond the edges of the matzos, but as the dish bakes all the parts come together beautifully, allowing you to cut it into individual servings with no problem.

I dreamed up this dish as a Passover entrÈe, but it would work equally well as the centrepiece for a brunch any time of the year. As for your Passover guests, here's a prediction from someone who married into the tribe: As soon as they realise they can't argue about the food, they'll happily move on to politics.

Zucchini Matzo Lasagna

Start to finish: 1 1/2 hours (1 hour active) Servings: 8

2lbs medium zucchini

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

3tbs extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

2tsp minced garlic

1/3 cup packed fresh dill, chopped, plus extra chopped dill to garnish

16-ounce container cottage cheese

2 cups whole milk

3 large eggs

1tbs lemon zest

8oz cream cheese

6oz feta cheese, crumbled, divided

6 matzos (6- to 7-inch squares)

Method:

1. Heat the oven to 400 8F. Coat a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with cooking spray.

2. Trim off and discard ends of the zucchini. In a food processor fitted with the grating disk, coarsely grate the zucchini.

3. Transfer the zucchini to a strainer and toss with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Let drain over the sink or a bowl for 15 minutes. Set the food processor, unwashed, aside to puree the sauce. After the zucchini has drained, using your hands and working with small handfuls, squeeze out as much moisture from it as possible.

4. In a large skillet over medium flame, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for one minute. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring, for two minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the 1/3 cup dill. Season with black pepper.

5. Fit the food processor with a regular cutting blade. In it, combine cottage cheese, milk, eggs and lemon zest. Process until smooth. Set aside two cups of the mixture, then add cream cheese to the mixture remaining in the processor. Process until smooth, then pour the mixture into the zucchini mixture along with one cup of the feta. Stir well, then set aside.

6. Stack the matzos in a deep dish and pour the reserved cottage cheese mixture over them.

- Sara Moulton

Associated Press