Wed | Oct 18, 2017

Paris Fashion Watch

Published:Sunday | July 5, 2015 | 12:00 AM
A model wears a creation as part of Givenchy's men's Spring-Summer 2016 fashion.
A model wears a creation by Berluti, part of the men's Spring/Summer 2016 collection, during Mode à Paris, in France, on Friday, June 26.
Berluti's collection was the most colour-rich collection of the season.
Sharp long tailored suit jackets made their way into Givinchy's collection.
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PARIS (AP):

Quirky touches infused the menswear runways in Paris Fashion Week Friday, while Givenchy got serious, reviving its long-neglected couture roots.

GIVENCHY'S UNEXPECTED RETURN TO COUTURE

It was a normal enough start for Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci.

Sharp, long, tailored suit jackets were followed by embellished basketball-style T-shirts, denim and a sprinkling of cobalt-blue coats.

The ubiquitous gothic stars, giant mysterious key-shaped pendants, images of the Crucifixion, and Roman-style layered skirts were also designs expected from a serial provocateur like Catholic Tisci.

But what made fashion insiders gasp in this very unexpected show was the unforgettable image of Naomi Campbell strutting the boards in her underwear in a glittering black couture jacket.

The look came alongside a diaphanous, feathered couture gown in pale yellow, and, elsewhere, fastidiously constructed white baroque fringing that had people grasping for their cameras.

It's been years since Givenchy has showcased its couture on the catwalk. Fashion insiders applauded this comeback for the age-old couture masters.

BERLUTI'S COLOUR VISION

It was the most colour-rich display seen so far this season, courtesy of Berluti.

The house - a bootmaker since 1895 - started showing on the Paris catwalks last year under the watchful eye of LVMH-owner Bernard Arnault's powerful son, Antoine, who is CEO.

And designer Alessandro Sartori is making a visual impact already though collections are certainly not for the colour-shy.

Last Friday, apple and earth green met joyously with raw Sienna, bright yellow, and vivid blues in loose Dandy jackets, high-waisted pants and insouciant baggy boho shirts.

The setting - inside the 17th century manor, the Hotel Sale, that houses the Picasso Museum - set of this colour-rich Dandy musing to a tee.

- Thomas Adamson