Sat | Aug 19, 2017

Paris Fashion Week recap

Published:Sunday | October 16, 2016 | 10:41 AM
Miu Miu's Spring-Summer 2017 ready-to-wear fashion collection which consisted of flowery swimmng caps.
Miu Miu's Spring-Summer 2017 ready-to-wear fashion collection took fashion insiders for a dip in a 1940s swimming pool.
Sheer was a major theme of the collection.
The retro mood of the multi-colored Spring-Summer collection by Mui Mui.
A model wears a creation for Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2017 ready-to-wear fashion collection.
The beauty of the collection was in its remarkable silhouettes and the deftness of the cuts.
Louis Vitton's French designer exposed his passion for the 1980s and riffed on science fiction.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

The Louis Vuitton red carpet was rolled out at the historic Place VendÙme for a much-needed happy ending to a Paris Fashion Week marred by the multimillion-dollar heist of Kim Kardashian West's jewellery.

A roll call of actresses that included Alicia Vikander, Jennifer Connelly, Michelle Williams, Sophie Turner and a heavily pregnant Lea Seydoux, joined tennis star Roger Federer in the front row.

And what a show it was.

 

THE CLOTHES

 

In lauded designer Nicolas Ghesquiere's finest collection since restyling the house in 2013, the French designer exposed his passion for the 1980s and riffed on science fiction.

Big hair, big shoulders, big sparkle, big prints, big eyes - that was the mantra for Spring-Summer.

Bold, sunset-shaped eye make-up that stretched from ear to ear set the fashion dial firmly to the age of Glam Rock.

That era was also known for its obsession with sci-fi films, a reference Ghesquiere picked up on in his 45-piece show.

Styles that evoked Star Wars were seen in lozenge patches over the bust, curved asymmetrical forms on shirts with metallic sheer overlays, tunic-like gowns with boots, and armour-like white shoulder pads that looked like they might have been snipped from a storm trooper's back.

But the beauty of the collection was in its remarkable silhouettes and the deftness of the cuts that made it a more grown-up display than those to which we've become accustomed.

A loose grey jacket with structured, mushroom-shaped oversized sleeves produced a stylish silhouette as it gently curved out at the bottom.

The designer, who revitalised Balenciaga during his tenure there from 1997 to 2012, seems to be doing the same at Louis Vuitton.

 

MIU MIU GOES SWIMMING

 

Inglorious Basterds star Diane Kruger donned a Miu Miu double-breasted pajama print suit to Prada's little sister show. Model Alexa Chung came with tousled hair and a fringed, black leather cowboy jacket.

The celebrities' styles couldn't have been more at odds with the retro mood of the multicoloured Spring-Summer collection.

Miu Miu took fashion insiders for a dip in a 1940s swimming pool.

Flowery swimming caps in black, red, yellow and white accompanied high-waisted, low-cut knitted swimwear that evoked the bygone days before the proliferation of synthetic materials.

Decorative cross-stitch embroideries on tight-fitting tops with frilly hems and period Peter Pan collars evoked the post-World War II era, as did patterned fabric scarves worn tied around the head.

The second half of the 53-piece collection fast-forwarded to the bright colours of the 1960s, with oranges, blues, yellows and pinks cut with the brown hues favoured in that decade.

The collection showed again Miuccia Prada's expertise in combining the intellectual with the fun.

- AP