Enid Donaldson MignotteFROM THE Middle Ages down to the 17th century, European big shots liked to eat big birds wading birds of the stork family, particularly cranes and herons.
It was a privilege of the nobility, and the 15th century cookery writer Platina was only repeating an ancient warming when he advised commoners never even to taste these birds, lest they develop a fondness for something beyond their station. But not many gourmets have tried them in recent centuries, as it's hard to know whether they were really prized for their flavour or mostly as a status symbol.
Part of the attraction was certainly their size (on the same principle whales were the property of the king in England).
Another was all those fine feathers. In the Middle Ages, a crane or a heron was usually boiled to tenderise it, and then finished by roasting to preserve its shape; finally to make a fine show on the banquet table, its featured skin was rearranged around the meat. A modern health inspector would probably have a thing or two to say about that.
The ancient Roman were fond of at least one of these wading birds, the crane, which they cooked the same way as duck, sometimes by roasting, but more often by braising in a spicy sweet & sour sauce. Platina knew of a Roman writer who preferred stork to crane, but he voted against stork himself because of the common Renaissance belief that storks ate snakes. (Actually, all these wading birds eat the same things fish and frogs, mostly).
Platina did observe that stork could be boiled, and his discussion suggests that pepper and sage would go well without. Keep this in mind whenever you have to cook a stork.
Charles Perry Forklore in The Los Angeles Times on How to Cook a Stork.
The chicken is said to be a world - citizen; duck and geese cosmopolites. Along with a number of the game birds which migrate from continent to continent they are international favourites. Each nation has learned to cook them in a manner distinctively its own.
The cooking of poultry and game birds are sufficiently different to warrant separate treatment.
Roast Domestic Duck
It is said most duck on the market is not descended from the wild native variety, but from a type bred in China where, of course, this bird is held in high esteem.
As duck has both a heavy frame and a high fat content, allow 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 lbs (6oz-675g) per serving.
Preheat oven to 450o (230oC)
Pick, clean and singe if necessary.a 5 to 6lb, duckling. Rub it, with garlic Place it on a rack in a roasting pan stuff with Celery stalks and sliced onions or a quartered apple, which you remove before serving, or with an apple stuffing.
Put the bird in the oven and reduce the heat at once to 350o (180o). Cook until tender, allowing about 20 minutes to the pound.
Pan Gravy
Makes 1 cup
Remove the meat from the pan.
Place it where it will remain hot.
Pour off all but 2 tbsp. drippings
Blend into them 1 tbsp flour
Stir with a wire whisk until the flour has thickened and until well combined and smooth. Continue to cook slowly and stir constantly, while adding.
The degreased pan juices, and enough milk, water, stock, cream or beer to make 1 cup. The beer may be "still".
Season the gravy with:
Salt
Pepper
Fresh or dried mixed herbs
Grated lemon rind, etc.
Strain the gravy, reheat and serve.
Cornmeal Mush with Roast Domestic Duck
Combine and Stir
(225g) 1 cup cornmeal
(230ml) 1 cup cold water
1 tsp. salt
Place in the top of a double boiler
4 cups boiling water
Stir cornmeal mixture in gradually
Cook & stir the mush over quick heat
From 2 to 3 minutes, steam it, covered over (not in), hot water about 15 minutes
Stir it frequently or make a thick glaze to pour over duck. Combine and mix well
(225g) 1 cup Otahiti apple cut up
(100ml) 1/2 cup honey
1 tbsp brandy
1 tbsp Cointreau or other orange-flavoured liqueur
Coat the duck with this glaze and return to the oven for 10 to 15 minutes until the glaze caramelises.
Happy Cooking!
"Game" is the term usually applied in the culinary world to all wild birds and animals that are edible.
