Claude Mills, Staff ReporterTHE NONSUCH Caves is a must-see for cave enthusiasts and amateur archaeologists world-wide because of its rich trove of natural formations and its historical importance.
Situated high in the hills overlooking Port Antonio and located in the quaint district of Nonsuch on a 185-acre coconut plantation, the Nonsuch Caves estates boast a botanical gardens so lush and diverse in flora and fauna that a walker feels as though he is caught up in a cool sea of moving green. There are several different species of trees and flowers in the gardens: pimento, bay leaf, cedar, Spanish Elm, Royal Palm, sweetwood, the poinciana and the hibiscus.
It takes about five minutes to walk from the top, through the botanical gardens, to eventually get to the entrance of the caves.
"The caves were discovered in the 1950s by a goat kid which got lost. The man tending to the herd had gone searching for the kid, and came upon the entrance to the cave. When he parted away the bushes, he heard the kid crying, so he crawled in to rescue it. At that time, the entrance was only three feet in diameter," Patricia King, who has been the tour guide for 15 years, said.
The caves reportedly got the unusual name Nonsuch in deference to a famous man with the Nonsuch surname, who reportedly owned all the land in the community.
Interestingly, the first 15 feet of the entrance of the cave has no stalagmites and there are a number of holes in the ceiling of the cave.
"That's because the entrance of the cave was full of mud, which experts say was over 6,000 years old, and under the sea. The holes on top are blowholes created by the push of water which could not get out of the cavern but was pushed back and upwards forming the holes."
"Sea shells and sponges from days when the ocean covered the caves were found," Ms. King added.
Experts believe they are over a
million years old. The Caves are made up of a network of chambers ranging in size, the highest rising 40 feet.
Over the years the Caves have
been excavated a number of times;
and each time new secrets were
discovered. Fossilised shells and sponge have been found embedded
in the limestone walls, supporting
the claim that Jamaica was once submerged below the sea and was thrust
to the surface by volcanic activity.
FORMATIONS
Visitors to the Nonsuch Caves will be intrigued by the magical formations within. The stalagmites and stalactites combine in weird and wonderful shapes to create natural, artistic
masterpieces.
Fossils inside the underground attraction demonstrate that the island was formed beneath the sea and thrust upwards through volcanic activity.
There are several formations including a 'flow stone', so called because I represents a 'frozen waterfall' with long furrows in the limestone which give the illusion of movement mimicking an actual waterfall.
Other famous formations include the 'angel wings', the 'china doll' and the 'pipe organ' which boasts limestone pipe formations.
"The formations sound hollow but aren't, and the sound or music they make depends on the length and size which control the vibrations each of the 'pipes' in the formation is able to give,"Ms. King says.
When one twangs the 'pipes', mysterious, magical sounds reverberate and echo throughout the caves. There are several chambers within the cave's network, one of which is nicknamed the 'Cathedral' because of its high ceilings which draw the eyes upwards.
"The Cathedral is the bats' romance area, this is where they mate and meet," Ms. King explained.
"Crocodile teeth, ash from a wood fire and two green sun-dried pendants were discovered in one of the chambers. They are believed to have belonged to the Arawak Indians," Ms. King said.
There are fruit bats who still inhabit the cave, and their guano stains the handrail as you progress deeper and deeper into the caves.
"We don't get many visitors again...in the 70s, we had a lot of famous guests, but not anymore, we get the occasional government minister and so on. However, the Germans still come here a lot, they love caves. Even when there is heavy rainfall and the entrance of the cave is flooded, the Germans wade through the rain and water to tour the caves," Ms. King said.
Most of the visitors are accounted for by school tours which are concentrated in the May to June time period.
The pavilion which was once an integral part of the Nonsuch Caves experience, and which affords a gorgeous view of the Port Antonio coastline has been closed for business.
"Visitors used to come here and enjoy the view while sipping on a complimentary drink, and perhaps, they could have a meal at the restaurant but that was a long time ago. However, every now and then, groups rent the pavilion for special events," Ms. King said.
Although the famous Nonsuch caves are a bona fide national treasure, the attraction is struggling to remain open, and according to its owner, Robert Tobey, 'is for all intents and purposes' closed to the public.
"In the eighties, when we had the cruise ships coming into Portland, and I used to employ as many as 25 people. Now, I employ only two...for all intents and purposes, Nonsuch Caves is closed, but after school groups make the trip up there on the bad roads, I don't have the heart to turn them back," Mr. Tobey said.
He bought the property from Herbert Winkle in 1970 for an amount he declined to disclose.
Other owners included Colonel Davie, C.A Smart, Bermingham and the property was once a part of the 1,211 acre Williamsfield Estates.
"It's heartbreaking really what has happened to the attraction, but I have no intention of selling...but I would entertain different suggestions or ideas. Portland needs the cruise ships for its attractions to keep active and up to speed. Right now, tourism in Portland is limping," he said.
TO GET THERE
Anyone wishing to visit the Nonsuch Caves should contact the Jamaica Tourist Board's offices in Port Antonio for more information on the costs of the Nonsuch Caves tour experience.
You can get there using either the route through St. Thomas passing through the famous town of Boston, or a circuitous route through the town of Port Antonio from the Junction end of the island. The caves are located in the community of Nonsuch, Portland.
It takes between 45 minutes and an hour to tour the cave depending on the size of the group.
