The sizzle in this Southern-style menu comes from cornmeal-fried fish with tartar sauce and lemon wedges, smothered greens and black-eyed peas. - Cole Publishing Group/Universal Press SyndicateAN OLD-FASHIONED fish fry that doesn't require battering or deep-frying is good news. In this down-home menu, lean white fish fillets are dipped in seasoned cornmeal and flour, then quickly pan-fried and rushed to the table sizzling hot.
The cornmeal-and-flour coating seals in the natural juices and flavour of the fish by creating a crisp, brown crust. Critical to proper crisping and browning is the size of the frying pan. Crowding fillets into a pan that's too small causes the fish to steam rather than sear. In a pan that's too large, the oil overheats, burning the surface of the fish before the interior can cook. In a pan just the right size, the fillets cover most of the bottom of the pan but don't touch one another.
Once fried, fish should be served at once, since holding
it undermines the flavour and texture. For this reason, keeping two frying pans going at once -- a technique that allows all the fish to be done at the same time -- is preferable to cooking the fish in batches.
SUCCESS TIPS
To keep food from sticking when pan-frying, have the oil very hot (but not smoking) before adding the food.
To test whether oil is hot enough for proper pan-frying, hold a piece of food so that the tip just touches the hot oil in the pan. If the oil doesn't sizzle right away, it's not hot enough.
Use firm, lean white fillets such as snapper or cod. Working with two large skillets, you can cook all the fish at once; otherwise, work in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan.
Cornmeal-Fried Fillets
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. powdered bay leaves
2 tsps. Kosher salt
2 1/2 lbs. fish fillets
1/2 cup (approximately) grapeseed
or peanut oil, for frying
3 tbsps. minced green onion, for garnish
1 tsp. grated lemon zest, for garnish Lemon wedges, for accompaniment
Bottled tartar sauce, for accompaniment
METHOD
1. Stir together flour, cornmeal, cayenne pepper, black pepper, bay leaves and salt. Place dry ingredients on a plate or sheet of waxed paper. Dip fish in flour mixture, shaking off excess. Transfer floured fillets to a clean plate.
2. In a large, heavy skillet or two medium-sized skillets, heat the oil over moderate heat. Fry fish, turning once, until golden on both sides.
Transfer fried fish to paper towels to drain briefly.
Garnish with a sprinkling of green onion and lemon zest, and serve immediately with lemon wedges and tartar sauce.
Serves 6.
This marinated salad showcases black-eyed peas and summer vegetables. Be sure to taste and adjust the seasoning just before serving.
Black-Eyed Pea Salad
3 1/2 cups cooked black-eyed peas, drained
1 sweet red bell pepper, minced
1 sweet green bell pepper, minced
3 escallions, minced
1/2 cup minced celery
1 cup seeded and diced tomato
3/4 cup parsley, minced
5 tbsps. white vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
2 tsps. minced orange zest
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
METHOD
1. Into large bowl, place peas, red and green peppers, green onions, celery, tomato and parsley. In small bowl, whisk together vinegar, oil and orange zest. Add to salad and mix gently. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Cover and chill. Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving; taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Serves 6.
Two kinds of greens plus fresh sweet corn are combined in this colourful braised side dish.
Smothered Greens and Corn
1 1/2 lbs. Swiss chard, washed and dried
3 tbsps. olive oil
1 1/3 cups coarsely chopped onion
1/4 lb. lean smoked ham,
diced (optional)
1 lb. calalloo, washed, trimmed
and coarsely chopped
3/4 cup chicken stock
2 cups fresh raw corn kernels
1/4 cup minced parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Lemon juice, to taste
Cider vinegar, for accompaniment
Hot pepper sauce, for accompaniment
METHOD
1. Separate the chard ribs from the leaves.
Chop the leaves coarsely and chop the stems into 1/2-inch pieces.
2. In a large skillet, heat olive oil over moderately low heat. Add onion and sauté until slightly softened (about 3 minutes). Add ham (if used), chard leaves and ribs, calalloo and stock. Bring to a simmer, cover, and reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Cook 10 minutes.
3. Uncover skillet; add corn. Cook, uncovered, until corn is done and greens are tender (about 5 more minutes). Stir in parsley, salt and pepper, and a few drops lemon juice. To serve, offer cider vinegar and hot pepper sauce on the side.
Serves 6.
