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The many moods of cassava
published: Thursday | February 26, 2004

By Kaili McDonnough, Staff Reporter


Feuilles de Minoc, a dish from the African country of the Gabon, made with cassava leaves, shrimps and fish. - Carlington Wilmot /Freelance Photographer

SHE CHOPS, dices, slices and boils it. Driven by her passion for cassava Sybil N'Toutome has invented a cassava salad, much like a potato salad. And when she's in the mood (not often) she gets out her beautifully carved mortar, a gift from an artist, and pounds the cassava to make bammies.

Other times she makes manioc, boiling the pounded cassava in banana leaf. Still, more often, she simply boils the cassava, serving it with steamed fish, sprinkling it with vinaigrette or adding a pinch of various herbs and spices to bring out the taste.

That's not all. Just when you think there can't be more to be made with a cassava, N'Toutoume takes the cassava leaves, adding shrimps and spices and turn it into a tasty side dish.

BOUNTIFUL BEGINNINGS

An employee in The Gleaner's marketing department, N'Toutoume got the yen for cassava after marrying a man from the African country of The Gabon. Ambassador Lubin Martial was born into the Fang tribe which considers the cassava sacred and unique. Cassava is used in the preparation of the Fang national dish Feuilles de Minoc -- a combination of freshly picked cassava leaves, fish and shrimp.

She remembers that her late husband's mother would boil and cut up the cassava in small squares which she then placed in a bowl of water in the fridge. The children would eat the cubes when they got the urge.

PLEASANT PASTIME

N'Toutoume enjoys the taste of cassava so much that she cultivates it in her backyard in upper St. Andrew. On a hilltop slope that leads down into her lush garden she has about 10 cassava trees, that are now bearing bountifully. "Growing cassava is a pleasant pastime as I love it so much that whenever I feel like making a dish I can just go out back and pick away," she explains.

Today N'Toutoume demonstrates how to make this one pot-meal that several days ago had The Gleaner lunchroom raving.

Here is the recipe:

Feuilles de Minoc

1 bunch cassava leaves, cut up

2 onions diced

1/2 scotch bonnet pepper

4 cloves garlic

1 tbsp. cooking oil

1/2 lb. fillet (experiment

with the fish of your choice)

1/4 lb. shrimp

Salt and black pepper to taste

METHOD

1. In a pot bring water to a boil and add cassava leaves and boil until leaves are tender. (This will take a little longer than it takes to boil callaloo leaves as cassava leaves are thicker).

2. When the leaves get tender, strain in a colander and place to the side.

3. In a frying pan add oil, onions, pepper and garlic. Fry until golden. Add fish and shrimps and fry until cooked.

4. Combine the diced cassava leaves and fry for about 10 minutes.

5. Add salt and pepper for additional taste.

6. Garnish with any remaining shrimp.

Serves 4.

So you know someone who makes a to-die-for sweet potato pie, the best chicken soup, a plantain porridge so thick and rich it curls your toes, a mouth-water...Or maybe you're the cook. Whatever the case, don't keep it to yourself, let us know and we'll feature the individual in an upcoming issue of Food.

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