Shelly-Ann Thompson, Freelance Writer
BARBARA HEPBURN
BARBARA HEPBURN'S cooking is as sweet as her personality. It says much about her, since Hepburn has won more than 64 medals over 20 years in the Jamaica Cultural Development Commission's (JCDC) culinary arts regional finals.
Last Friday (her 74th birthday), Hepburn invited Food to her home in Mile Gully, Manchester, to sample her cooking. She made turned cornmeal with saltfish and sweet potato pudding. She seated us at her dinner table where dignitaries such as Prime Minister P. J. Patterson have dined.
She told of the time, about two years ago, when Prime Minister Patterson dropped in for dinner. He was touring the community as a part of the activities that were planned for the opening of the Mile Gully Community Centre. She was called on by Dean Peart, Member of Parliament for the area, to prepare dinner for the visitors. "He came here and had dinner right at this table," Hepburn said with a proud smile. "And all 'im security dem whey pack 'round the yard."
As we talked about food, Hepburn recalled the days of meals for community and church functions. The cooks used every ingredient that was at their disposal.
"Old-time people never used to throw away the trash of coconut after grating the coconut and juicing it. We used to mix up everything."
GO FOR IT
Back in the day, one of the most delicious meals (that made people lick their mouth) was called Go For.
In those old days, cooks put annatto (a fruit with red seeds that can be used for food colouring) in the oil and boiled it. When stirred, the mixture changed to a bright yellow. It would be strained and seasonings and saltfish added and then cooked. The combination would be served with green bananas and corn dumplings.
"People loved Go For," said Hepburn.
Living in Mile Gully since 1956, Hepurn's aptitude in the kitchen flared up when she had to find creative ways to feed her husband and nine children.
She recalled that after sending the children to school and completing her housework, she would attend food classes at the Social Development Commission (SDC) in Mile Gully. "I'm a lover of cooking and everyday I would like to see something new so I attended the classes to learn something new and to follow my interests," she explained.
Apart from the SDC classes, Hepburn also attended Grace Kitchens workshops in Kingston, and now occasionally takes part in JCDC workshops in Mandeville.
GOLD, SILVER AND BRONZE
Twenty-nine of her 64 JCDC medals are gold. The dozens of medals, plaques and certificates, dating back to 1982, line the whatnot in her sitting room. And she keeps adding to the collection.
In last year's regional finals she won gold for her carrot cake; bronze for her spaghetti pie; and a certificate of merit. The carrot cake had applesauce, pineapple, nuts and cheese. One of the judges described it as different, said Hepburn.
"When I first entered, I got a certificate of participation. So I said, 'if I can get a certificate of participation, I'm going to work towards a gold'."
This year, a knee operation threw a wrench in her plans to reap more medals. The operation was June 9, the day before the regional finals. The recipes she had already written stayed on her dinner table without being created.
"Due to the knee, I can't do any long standing but it doesn't stop me from doing anything," said Hepburn who uses a walker.
Over the years, she has made birthday and wedding cakes for relatives, friends and neighbours - sometimes free of charge.
MORE ACCOLADES
The Manchester Chapter of Lay Magistrates Association has given her a citation for long service to the Mile Gully community in the field of home economics.
During our visit, Hepburn was apologetic. "Because I can't jump around as I like, I was going to bake chicken for you but instead used saltfish."
How sweet.
FIRST FOOD MEMORY: For Labour Day, back in those old days of the 1970s, members of the community cooked for persons doing work. It was a wonderful time.
WHAT COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT: I've always loved flour dumplings, green banana with salt mackerel or red herring. I can't have a lot of dumplings now so I eat only one.
FOOD YOU DISLIKE: None, because all the food we had, we ate.
FOOD PHILOSOPHY: We have a big family so I ensure that I cook enough food that can share.
KITCHEN/CUPBOARD SURPRISE: My friends would be surprised that you have papaya and pumpkin liqueurs, as most people don't know that these food items can be used to make wines or liqueurs to be used in cakes.
Turned Cornmeal
3 cups cornmeal
4 cups coconut milk
1 medium onion
1 large stalk scallion
2 cups diced beef
1 green sweet pepper
6 small okras
3/4 cup diced raw saltfish
1 medium tomato diced
1/4 lb. margarine
1 scotch bonnet pepper,
finely cut
black pepper to taste
2 tsp. salad oil
METHOD
1. Cook the meat until it is brown, and set aside.
2. Lightly fry onion, scallion, green pepper, okras, tomato and hot pepper in salad oil.
Combine meat, saltfish, butter and cornmeal and stir well.
3. Set coconut milk on fire to boil until a slight sum is formed, roughly 12 minutes, then add cornmeal.
4. Stir well without any lump, then cover and steam over very low fire.
5. Stir occasionally until meal is cooked.
6. Grease a mould dish and press the turned cornmeal in, cover the dish to keep warm until ready to serve.
Serve with chicken and tomato slices.
Sweet Cassava Pudding
2 medium size sweet cassava
3 ozs margarine
2 cups sugar
2 cups grated coconut juice
1/2 cup raisin
1 tsp. cinnamon powder
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. Rose water
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup hot water
METHOD
1. Wash and grate sweet cassava, add coconut milk, sugar, spices and add to that the beaten eggs and the rest of ingredients.
2. Mix thoroughly with 1 cup of hot water, stir well.
3. Grease baking tin, pour in mixture and bake for one hour. Cover with grease paper.
Serve with or without sauce.
Broccoli and cauliflower bake
1 1/2 lbs broccoli, trimmed
1 1/2 lbs cauliflower, trimmed
3 tsp. margarine
2 ozs flour
12 ozs milk
3 ozs grated cheddar cheese
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
Cheese sauce
Pepper
METHOD
1. Butter an ovenproof bowl or round mould dish.
2. Break the broccoli into florets and drop in pot of boiling salted water. Cook for five minutes, drain and rinse with cold water, then spread on a paper towel to drain.
3. Break the cauliflower into florets, drop in a pot of boiling salted water. Cook for five minutes, drain and rinse with cold water, spread on paper towel to dry.
4. Place a cluster of cauliflower on the bottom of the bowl, add a layer of broccoli, fill the centre with small florets.
Add another layer of cauliflower, finish with a layer of broccoli.
5. Cover the bowl with buttered foil and bake for about 10 minutes or until vegetables are soft.
6. Melt margarine in a saucepan, add flour, stirring constantly and simmer until thick. Stir in milk, cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
7. Pour mixture over vegetables.
8. Hold a warm serving plate over the top of the mould dish to lift off top.
9. Serve the moulded vegetables with cheese sauce.
- Recipes by Barbara Hepburn
