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Stabroek News

This mockingbird is going to sing!
published: Thursday | April 6, 2006

Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor


Mocking Bird Hill Hotel offers delightful afternoon teas that include perfectly brewed Blue Mountain coffee, freshly baked cakes and pastries. - PHOTOS BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON

Mocking Bird Hill, Portland

Reservations: (876)993- 7134 or 993-7267; fax: 993-7133; email: mockbrd@cwjamaica.com

Complimentary high speed Internet access

Afternoon teas: US$20

Visit their website for more info: www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com

TRAVELLING THE parishes on a working mission requires finding peaceful accommodation when the need to rest one's weary head arrives. I headed for Portland's Mocking Bird Hill Hotel overlooking Port Antonio's surrounding verdant hills, nestled in what can only be described as a semi-rain forest where flowers of all descriptions bloom. Owned and operated by Shireen Aga and Barbara Walker (backed by a most friendly and service-oriented staff), these two have created a hideaway for those with discerning tastes. It offers good food, artistic flair, blissful silence, breathtaking views, colourful birds, dancing butterflies, fireflies during cool misty evenings and dew on the early-morning grass. This was my second visit to the property and if I may be allowed to say, the better one.

AGRI-TOURISM IS THE WORD OF THE FUTURE

Mocking Bird Hill Hotel prides itself on a business that supports the parish of Portland and its surroundings. The owners are "food-groupies of a different kind" giving even more credibility to what I love to preach: It is possible to run a successful agri-tourism hotel in this country. Contrary to what many people in the business believe, there is much on our island that would astound if only we could find the cure for 'industry laziness' disease. Healing from that scourge which brings on words like: "Oh-so-busy-sitting-behind-my-desk-in-my-hotel/restaurant," can result in cooperation with farmers, specifically trained to meet the food-needs of one's particular property. This approach will create a domino effect of such magnitude that the benefits to the country and its people would become the top source of national pride. Less imports, more employment equal flourishing, happy people.

FOOD GROUPIES OF A DIFFERENT KIND

Organic is a word that means no chemicals and, therefore, better health. Shereen and Barbara are organic food groupies. At their hotel organic is the word and the way of the future. Local organic farming is also the word, and the way of the future. Good contractual relationships with organic farmers is definitely the way.

Here's an example. A quick visit to Shereen and Barbara's dinner table brought an introduction to a very fine-looking lady with the face of an angel and a twinkle in her eyes. She opened a roll of cheese and put it before me for my tasting. Without hesitation and with every bit of manners I had to muster, I managed an interested smile, agreeing to a quick itsy-bitsy-taste-testing. What a shock to the senses. What a delight to the palate. A most smooth, divine, creamy, fantastic, scrumptious, goat cheese with a slight note of rum, an occasional raisin within bursting into sweetness bringing all my senses into play but compartmentalising aroma, texture, taste and the visual.

Ferran Adria's revolutionary way of comprehending food had overtaken me. I immediately wanted as much information as I could get about it. As easy as that, an evening was spent in the delights of goat cheese slices made in Portland by this American (married to a Jamaican) lady's own hand with the help of her two milking goats. Suggestions and speculations immediately bounced between us ­ goat cheeses with otaheite apple, oranges, grapefruit, ortanique, June plum, mango. What about crushed fresh pimento? Or even touches of jerk seasonings? St. Mary's Vanilla. Exotic tastes that would blow any visitor to the island away ­ and a few locals too! I was left with thoughts of exotic tropical goat cheese on the market, the goat-cheese producer with renewed thoughts of motivating her community into comprehending the available niche.

WOMAN POWER IS ALSO THE WORD OF THE FUTURE

Shireen and Barbara, having my undivided attention now - there was no way I was going to leave that cheese alone ­ expounded on what they have managed to do. Sourced and found: local organic honey and cheese for their tables; organic free-range chicken and duck, freshly caught supplies of crayfish from the rivers, fish and shellfish from the seas, organic greens and vegetables from local farmers for their kitchens. "We do not believe in architectural food here, our dishes are constructed with a touch of warmth and a lot of purity. Clean food is what we offer," said Shireen unabashedly.

I slept like a baby, waking refreshed with one uncontrollable thought ­ the leftover goat cheese waiting in the breakfast room. Mockingbird Hill Hotel should be touted as the first 'Bed and Breakfast' spot in Jamaica! Why? Because breakfast of your choice is always accompanied by fresh fruits and an array of speciality breads baked in-house daily ­ the latter smothered by me in yes! ­ you got it ­ rum and raisin goat cheese!

OF TEAS AND EASTER

Mocking Bird Hill Hotel (apart from their ever-changing and innovative restaurant menu), also offers delightful afternoon teas that include perfectly brewed Blue Mountain coffee, freshly baked cakes and pastries that vie for position with savoury sandwiches filled with marlin and, again, that goat cheese from heaven. So if you want laid-back peace and quiet for the Easter weekend (or any other time of the year), Mockingbird Hill Hotel gets my vote. Good going ladies. Don't we just know that we were put on this earth to make a difference? And does it not seem we are finally gaining ground?

With this in mind I offer my sincere congratulations to Jamaica's new Prime Minister, Portia Simpson Miller. Not one for getting involved in the politics of a country, when my arm was twisted at a certain recent luncheon, I declared a female Prime Minister could be a positive move.

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