Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor

Left: Miss May's escoveitch fish, fried to perfection.   Right: Little David's has the best chicken sausage ever! - Photos by Rosemary Parkinson

We boarded Air Jamaica in Barbados last Wednesday - a group of five consisting of the Rothe family from Germany and myself; the former going to Jamaica for the first time. Convincing them to leave the smaller islands until after their Jamaican experience was not easy, this island having an unfortunate reputation that I constantly repudiate on all my travels. The first great impression? The food on board. Yep! believe it or not, Air Jamaica has recognised the importance of serving Jamaican nosh. Stewed chicken, rice and veggies, callaloo, fried plantains, warm bread with Grace butter, and a sponge cup-cake for dessert.

Way to go Air J!

The obviously proud in-flight cabin attendants oozed with island warmth and Air Jamaica was a winner. Way to go Air J! On arrival, we had no problems at immigration or customs, just more warm welcomes making our travel even sweeter. Hallelujah for upgrades! I take the opportunity to welcome Nasio Fontaine (Dominica) and his wife Ellen to Jamaica, also on our flight. He is here for rehearsals with his Jamaican posse before leaving for Senegal, his new CD is short of haunting, his reggae vibes an

Inspiration.

That night, Northside Plaza in St. Andrew beckoned for the best pan-chicken ever before visiting Miss Norma Shirley who has been unwell (we all wish her a speedy recovery). It was a gathering of Leos - Shirley (13th), Joern Rothe and myself (16th). What better way to celebrate than with a fabulously-decorated, great-tasting cake from Dawn Mitchell. Thank you Dawn.

Thursday was Hellshire. Norma joined us for some fresh sea air; Miss May outdoing herself with perfectly-fried escoveitch fish and mounds of lobster. The waters were the most azure I have ever seen and the beach pristine clean. What an upgrade! Next was the Blue Mountains. This road is sad. Jamaica's best, and the path to reach these delightful peaks, treacherous. Anyhow, I explained the damage away and we braved the weather, the potholes and broken mountainsides. The blues, as if understanding, cleared the rains and revealed their spectacular views and incredibly-colourful blooming flowers.

At Café Blue (see review next week) Jamaican hospitality came to the fore - stupidly running out of gas, one Mr. Recas assisted with two gallons, refusing payment. Thank you sir. My wards were now really impressed. Back in town we ordered pizza from Domino's. A thumbs up was given from the pizza connoisseurs. I was glad to see this upgrade after my thumbs down so many, many moons ago.

Friday was St. Thomas, Portland, St. Mary, St. Ann, Trelawny and into St. James, stopping along the way for the perfunctory Jamaican cuisine. St. Thomas did not disappoint until Reach Falls. I had spoken highly of my favourite spot. Last time I visited, Frank in his little rum bar had welcomed me with arms outstretched, his niece Viveen offering a great janga soup, his cousin busy making jewellery for all to see and the falls - well talk about pure unadulterated beauty. This time we were greeted by a billboard announcing its closure.

We were informed by one Desmond (seeing our perplexed expression as we looked at the sign at the entrance) that Frank had died, I was devastated. Desmond assured us that the guards near the river might allow us to walk and take a quick look - a chance to pay belated respects.

UDC UPGRADE

Security would have none of it and another billboard excusing the Urban Development Corporation (UDC) while they upgraded, greeted us. Being totally eco-minded, the Germans enquired: "You tell us about this wonderful natural waterfall - how do you upgrade this?" A Jamaican had the answer amid peals of laughter: "God did not do a good enough job and the UDC is taking care of this!" OK then!

Manchioneal with a stop at Parsons next to Titus Bar produced curry goat, fried chicken, rice and peas, a piece of yam with yellow butter - all attacked with a few bites of Scotchbonnet pepper. Yes! visitors do like spicy!

At Boston, Little David did us good with his amazing chicken sausage before we peaked at the Blue Lagoon ("Is the UDC going to upgrade this too?" the Germans asked) and later, frosty fruit punches were enjoyed at Norma's At the Marina. In Ocho Rios, we delved into several delicious 'flavours' of Mother's patties.

Sunday we visited Hanover, Westmoreland, St. Elizabeth, and Clarendon, with a must-stop at Culloden Café (Culloden, Westmoreland) where Kew Gardens coffee, espresso style, totally impressed these new 'Jamaicaphiles.' With Ann Lyon's delicious dips, home-made breads, lamb salads, plates full of Middle Eastern food and desserts for the gods, there was enough energy for the trip into Kingston where dinner was provided by Dian Watson and Contemporary Gallery, gouged down with gusto as the final 'big' food experience.

An early trip into downtown to shop on Church Street, a look at the amazing architecture (why is this architecture not upgraded being the question of the day), before experiencing Port Royal and the airport (again) brought definite promises to return next year for possibly one month. Ahh, Jamaica impressed yet again!