Norman Grindley/Deputy Chief Photographer
Watch Your Step! Tourists skilfully sidestep the huge potholes in the Pier Road, which runs off Main Street in Ocho Rios.

Former director of cruise shipping, the late Leo Wyman, once described Ocho Rios as "an old lady in a torn petticoat that is badly in need of some dressing up."

Today, nearly nine years later, there are many who believe that Ocho Rios, despite the new attractions and shopping centres, has not done much to improve on its aesthetic appeal.

"Not much has changed since Mr. Wyman uttered those words back in 1998," said Nancy Chatani, owner of BiBiBips Restaurant. "If I can recall he took some flak for it but he was speaking the truth. Today, with all the street vending and potholes, I am sorry to say that if anything, this town has taken a turn for the worse. We certainly can do better than this."

Judi Schoenbein, vice-president for the Association of Jamaica Attractions, agreed. "If you should go to the other islands and see how they have upgraded their ports and the sort of welcoming they have for their visitors, you would be embarrassed when you come back to Ocho Rios and see the ghastly sights we have as ports," she said.

"How can we say we are serious about our tourism when we don't take time out to improve on our facilities and to make the tourist towns a lot more attractive?"

Ocho Rios is widely considered the cruise capital of Jamaica. Over the last eight years, the town has not only grown in stature but has been attracting a lot of private investment. During the period, it has seen the arrival of Dolphin Cove, Hard Rock Café, White River Valley, Margaritaville, Island Village, Ocean 11, Ruins by the Falls, and the Prospect Zoo.

Dilapidated state

However, despite the billions of dollars that have been pumped in, the town remains in a dilapidated state and a source of embarrassment for residents. There are even now calls from within the business community for the appointment of a town manager, with many now decrying what they see as a 'Rudderless ship sailing out of control.'

"What we have here to show people is nothing short of an embarrassment," lamented Michael Stewart, tour operator.

"Harassment is at an all-time high; the pimps, touts and drug pushers are having a ball, and, if this is not bad enough, the town is now flooded with street people and beggars. Also, look at how clogged up our drains are. When it rains, the town is a sorry sight where flooding is the order of the day. Ocho Rios is now arguably the most unattractive of all the resort towns in the country," Stewart adds.

Businessman Michael Belnavis sees the fact that North East St. Ann has an opposition Member of Parliament and a Jamaica Labour Party (JLP)-controlled parish council as working against the town of Ocho Rios. "With the People's National Party (PNP) in charge of central government, don't expect Ocho Rios to get much by way of resources," he said. "How else can you explain the shabby treatment this town has been receiving?" Member of Parliament, Shahine Robinson, and Mayor of St. Ann's Bay, Delroy Giscombe, have long complained of not getting the resources to deal with the problems facing the town.

Massive failure

The town's resort board, many say, has been a massive failure. The Chamber of Commerce has also come in for some harsh criticism, with critics calling it a good old boys' club lacking leadership and guidance.

"The problem is that the persons who make decisions concerning Ocho Rios are far away in Kingston within the confines of their air-conditioned offices," commented Mark White, businessman. "I don't get the impression that we are on the same page here in this town. There's hardly any unity or any cohesiveness; it's almost your typical case of every man for himself."

Lawrence Kirlew, taxi operator, says it is critical that the town gets its act together "before we fall further behind and lose what we have. "Ocho Rios has, for years, been a preferred cruise destination but that could all change," he said.

"Notwithstanding the fact that there already is the problem of inadequate berthing facilities, the unattractive nature of the town could make it less likely for the cruise lines to want to subject their passengers to what we are offering."