Thai Ku De Ta with vigor shot. - photos by Rosemary Parkinson Rosemary Parkinson, Gleaner Writer
St. Lucia is a 238-square-mile island of volcanic origin that was fought for 14 times by the French and the British. It has been left with a culinary tradition that encompasses both these European countries, the original Amerindian settlers (who called the island Ionaunalao and Hewanmore, meaning where the iguana is found) and the African slaves brought in to toil its lands.
Once the vacation home of Napoleon's wife Josephine, St. Lucia remains an incredibly beautiful island with its rainforests, fishing villages, magnificent Pitons (mountains that seem to soar out of the waters to touch the skies) and its melting pot of people, culture and traditions. The rise in tourism has impacted St. Lucia's cuisine with many smitten by the island's overseas chefs creating their own fusion of traditional/gourmet fare, utilising the bounty of fruits and vegetables grown.
Local chefs are simply also not to be dismissed for their delightful creativity. This week, journey with me from the markets, where the heart of good cuisine touches the soul, right to several spots that are exciting and well worth a visit. Remember: Use 10 per cent as the standard tip. US$1.00 = EC$2.67. rental cars - best rates 24 (758-452-1330); EC$54 for a driver's licence; Tropical Traveller magazine for information.
If you are an ardent 'foodie', my first suggestion - contact taxi-man extraordinaire Hilary Moise (758-584-5222 - per full day: US$140 approximately, includes knowledge). My second - on Friday nights, attend one or both of these village fish fries, Anse La Raye, west coast or Gros Islet nearer to Castries. Piton is the correct beer to drink, Bounty, the rum. But, the traditional spiced rum sold from large bottles filled with all manner of fresh spices and strange sticks is definitely an experience.
My third and last whisper is buy a copy of A Visitor's Guide to St. Lucian Patois and you will 'mange, bwe, amise coh for bef duva Ka-bwe glo net!'
DOWN THE WEST COAST FROM CASTRIES
Plas Kassa
A must stop. Women prepare cassava (peeling, grating and then pressing the vegetable to extract the water), before roasting the mixture in large, copper pots over wood fires to produce farine (flour), to make huge cakes with raisins, cherries, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Chateau Mygo
Marigot Bay. (758-451-4772)
Chef Shaid Rambally and his family serve up a feast of St. Lucian/Indian cuisine right on the waters. Try Caf Sent Lisi - rum, coffee, ice cream, cinnamon and nutmeg. US$8 up.
Dasheene Restaurant
Ladera Resorts
Soufriere. (758-459-7323).
Fusion of St. Lucian cuisine with Chef Orlando. Loved Jerk Poulet Ti Zel - chicken wings served on papaya salad with spicy passion fruit vinaigrette, the Derek Walcott Accra - banana fishcakes, creole sauce, sweet potato fries, ripe fried plantains and carib coleslaw. Cocoa Mousse served in a cocoa pod for dessert (US$35). The vista of the majestic Pitons is included in the price.
Camilla's Restaurant & Bar
7 Bridge St., Soufriere
(758) 459-5379
Great for breakfast US$4 up
CASTRIES & ENVIRONS
Castries Market
A must. The Food Court offers local breakfast starting with Bouillon - a soup like no other - ending with Saltfish and Bake, a hot cup of cocoa-tea (recipe below) from grated cocoa sticks. Great local lunches (US$10 approximately.).
Auberge Seraphine (578-453-2073) or Jacques Restaurant (578-458-1900).
Vigie. Both are great for lunch. French/St. Lucian. US$10 up.
Coal Pot
Excellent tuna steak rare. Sweet spot not far from Sandals.
Don't get upset if the owner starts to flap at busy times - she's French and funny. French cuisine. US$12 up
RODNEY BAY & MARINA
The Edge
(578-450-3343)
Chef Bobo Bergstrom and his Eurobbean fusion astounds. Try St. Lucian Chocolate and Chili marinated Pork Tenderloin with Tomato-colada Sauce and Sweet Potato Gratin. US$20 up. Great breakfasts served. Reservations a must.
Ti Bananne's
Coco Palm Hotel, Rodney Bay.
Chef Richardson Skinner's up-a-notch St. Lucian fare (578-452-0712). US$8 up.
del Mare
Excellent Italian cuisine personally cooked by Chef (578-458-0333), excellent traditional Italian served personally by Chef Bonisolli from Rimini. (US$65 for three courses).
The Buzz Seafood & Grill
(758-458-0450) with fun-loving
South African/English/St. Lucianphile Pat Bowden. US$8 up.
Caf Claude
Great Stuffed local Crab Back - land crab meat marinated, stuffed into crab shell served with piquant ginger sauce and a choice of dinner offerings.
Ku De Ta
Classic healthy Thai Cuisine (578-458-4968) in an eastern design setting. Absolutely amazing. Reservations required. US$8 up
The Lime Restaurant and Upper Level Nightclub
(758-452-0761) offer food, music and dancing. Rumours nightclub also 'happens' until the wee hours of the morning.
The Bread Basket
Rodney Bay Marina
An array of sandwiches/snacks. Good for breakfast. From US$5 up.
UP THE NORTH COAST
Tao
Le Sport Hotel & Spa
Excellent Japanese served up by gorgeous men in great outfits. US$10 up.
RURAL
Babonneau
Fond Latisab Creole Park (451-6058) offers preparation of cassava bread, cooking on macambou leaves, catching river crayfish. Observe bees making honey and wood sawing to the music of a chak-chak band.
(From left) A breakfast of bouillon gets one strong for the cricket.
Deep-fried mozzarella served on fried green tomato salad and a creole vinaigrette from Chef.
Chocolate Mousse served in cocoa pod - Dasheene Restaurant.
Ti Bananne's Cheesecake on Pineapple Ring.
Ku De Ta, Ceviche in coconut shell.
