Glenroy Sinclair, Assignment Co-ordinator

Migrant workers look at pictures of North Korea's late leader Kim Il-sung (left) and current leader Kim Jong-il in Beijing last week. - REUTERS

For more than 20 hours, over 300 journalists, including three Jamaicans - Desmond Richards, Hylton Dennis and myself - were barred from communicating with the rest of the world, during a trip to the communist-ruled territory of North Korea, on Wednesday, March 14.

It was an opportunity to look at what life is like behind the 'red zone', which is ruled by President Kim Jong-il, who took over power from his late father, Kim Il-sung, who died 13 years ago.

Our cellular phones, laptops, cameras with zoom lens, tape recorders and camcorders were taken by our South Korean tour guides, who got strict orders that binoculars, printed handouts, including newspapers in English language, were not allowed inside the 'red zone'.

No photos allowed

The takingof photos of military services, soldiers, guides and the scenery was not allowed; smoking was only allowed in designated areas. We were warned that breaches could attract large fines. The group of journalists, who came from 70 countries, arrived in Seoul, South Korea on March 9, for the International Federation of Journalists - Journalists Association of Korea Special Conference.

The gesture was for journalists worldwide to report extensively on the impact of the new era and the end of the division of the two Koreas, which can inspire peace and love around the world. The theme of the conference was 'Peace and Reconciliation of the Korean Peninsula'.

Heading north

After two days in Seoul, we packed and headed towards the north, escorted through the heavy traffic on the Yeongdong Express Highway, moving through the towns of Yan Yan and Sokcho. Our lunch stop was at the Moremons Hotel in Sokcho. Our police escort took us to the border where we went through immigration and customs. We got a close-up look at the South Korean soldiers in the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), before crossing the military boundary into North Korea.

There were no welcome signs at the North Korean point of entry; instead there were grim faced soldiers manning the immigration post, which looked very ancient, when compared with the facility in other countries. A piece of white-looking tarpaulin was used to cover a paved area where cubicles were set up. Hoisted on a pole was a bull horn blaring Korean instrumental music, while the shifty eyes of soldiers scrutinised members of the group.

immigration processing

Finally, it was my turn to be processed by the immigration officer (soldier). I walked up and rested my fingers on the edge of the narrow counter of the cubicle, from where the officer was operating.

"Take your fingers off this counter," the immigration officer shouted angrily. "What is your name?" he asked repeatedly, while scrutinising my passport.

I shouted aloud my name twice, as was requested, staring the immigration officer in the face, while about three of his colleagues stood aside and observed what was happening.

"Oh, you are a writer," the immigration officer said, forcing a half smile which exposed his gold teeth, while handing back my passport.

After clearing immigration, the group moved deeper into the north. There was green barbed-wire perimeter fencing on both sides of the road, which prevents human or vehicular traffic from entering the villages unnoticed. There were also soldiers at every intersection, roadway, pathway and gateway.Rocket launchers, readily placed on military trucks, in bunkers across the hillsides were also observed. Soldiers were so strategically positioned, it gave the impression that they were on high alert and expecting an invasion at any moment. Unlike the soldiers in the South, the North Korean soldiers were unfriendly, they never smile, and if you attempt to strike up a conversation, they don't respond. They just grimly stare you in the face.

Dark-coloured clothing

The villagers were attired in dark-coloured clothing and their main means of transportation was the bicycle. We were not permitted to walk on the streets; we were only allowed to move around via the tour buses.

The North Korean women are some of the most beautiful beings on earth, but those who we came across did not speak English. The streets were clean and free of potholes. One of the most memorable moments in the North was a superb acrobatic show at the Pyeoung-Yang Moranbong Centre and a tour of Mount Kumgang, which is a major tourist attraction. The performance centre is located across from the Oekumgang Hotel, where we stayed overnight.

On the second day in North Korea, an Italian journalist was almost arrested after being accused of taking photos of the villagers and soldiers. A bus load of his colleagues had to negotiate with the soldiers who instructed him to erase the photos. While making our exit, a Polish journalist was accused of the same offence. He was also asked to erase the photos taken.

Finally, it was time to go back to South Korea. I felt so relieved and comfortable again.