Tanya C Ellis, Gleaner Writer

Kimanee wears a spanking hot red number designed by Barry Moncrieffe during Caribbean Fashionweek (CFW) 2006. - Winston Sill/Freelance Photographer

Barry Moncrieffe's salon in Jamaica has a richly deserved reputation as a bastion of chic designs with ultra classic cuts. It is very interesting that he has mastered the art of fashion and design since he started his creative career in the theatre.

"Fashion was, of course, my first love, but during the course of my teenage years, along with social expectations my interests shifted towards the theatre," Moncrieffe told The Gleaner.

Moncrieffe's design house, named after him, has become one of the Caribbean's most sought after labels and is fast becoming the brand to outdo during Caribbean Fashionweek, where he has been showcasing his designs since 2001.

Signature style

His structured approach to design is not only his signature style trait; it is also the contour discipline of most of his work because this, he says, adds "impeccably to his tailoring and design concept", both for his men's and women's wear. Moncrieffe tends to play it safe and says the classic black and white often defines his key pieces, even though he blends vibrant colours in his collection.

"I am not one for frills, thrills, puffs and lace. I believe they steal from the beauty of the completed garment," Moncrieffe said.

His continuous exploration of black and white produces the fresh, classic look that he aims for, as he says "simple cottons and linens are my preferred fabric choices for daywear and soft georgettes and knits are transformed into moving expressions for my more glamorous pieces".

Inspiration from dance

As associate director at the National School of Dance, Moncrieffe often draws inspiration from dance movements for his fashion creations. "The fluidity of dance can often be observed in my clothes. I love movement, and I believe that my clients should be comfortable, and that is why my second source of inspiration is fabric," he said. He says that designing without seeing the fabric of choice can limit the production of the piece and so he prefers to design around a particular print.

Even though he has not officially started to plan for it, Moncrieffe's intention for this year's Caribbean Fashionweek is to explore print in more depth. "I will not totally move away from the appliqué patterns I have used in the past; I will incorporate that with my own prints which I am currently working on with Micah Wheatle, a second year student at the Edna Manley College for the Visual and Performing Arts," Moncrieffe said.

Moncrieffe's creativity knows no limits, as he will also be creativity director for the 2008 Miss Jamaica Universe Pageant this year. Even with restricted time to pursue fashion on a full-time basis, his designs are still favoured among local fashionistas. Moncrieffe's client list including Gem Myers, Karen Smith and AJ Brown.

"I would love to spend more time designing, but I am far stretched and I find it hard to break away from one to concentrate fully on the next. I am still trying to find balance," he said. This, Moncrieffe said, would grant him the opportunity to exclusively promote his position as a style leader.