Getting from relaxed to natural

Curly-centric, Contributor

If you are interested in returning to natural from processed hair, it must be emphasised that the relaxed hair will have to be removed either all at once or over time depending on the process you choose to return to your natural tresses. Audrey Sivasothy, health scientist and author of The Science of Black Hair reiterates this by stating, "since hair texture is determined at the cellular level deep within the scalp, relaxed hair texture cannot be stripped from the hair to return it to its natural state."

There are two main ways for you to return natural: by way of a big chop (BC) or a long term transition. A BC removes the processed hair all at once and the long-term transition allows the new growth to flourish while maintaining the older processed ends until the new growth gets to a comfortable length and the older ends removed. Today's article will feature the BC.

The BC is the fast track back to natural hair. This is where all the relaxed hair is cut off leaving three inches or less of new growth. A BC allows one to nurture the new growth without having to manipulate delicate two-textured hair (natural closer to the scalp with older processed ends). The BC is a drastic and bold move as persons are usually left with very short hair. Depending on how much new growth exists, a BC can leave one with hair as short as a fade or up to two or three inches long commonly called Teeny Weeny Afro or (TWA).

Having short natural hair is a wonderful opportunity to explore a new look and play up your facial features with bold make-up and accessories. The BC is for you if:

You are comfortable with having extremely short hair

You are unwilling to manipulate and style two-textured hair (half-processed, half-natural)

You usually complement your look using bold accessories and make-up.

If you currently have processed hair and are thinking about the big chop, Sivasothy also warns to keep in mind that the straight length of hair (if relaxed), while still attached stretches the new growth slightly, so that it appears longer and often wavier. Once the straight hair is removed, the new growth often curls up and draws back tighter against the scalp, making the remaining natural hair appear shorter than the wearer may have anticipated. In other words, the appearance of your natural hair after a BC may not be quite like what you expect.

Patience needed

The real downside to the big chop is that it may take time to get accustomed to. At first, you may feel less feminine. You may get frustrated as styling options for someone who has just undergone a BC are somewhat limited. On the other hand, you may just fall in love with your facial features and love the new look. Here are some real accounts from two Jamaican 'naturalistas' who both did a BC.

Sherelle did her BC and had this to say about her experience:

"My big chop experience was a self-esteem lesson all over again. It allowed me to see me and love me. It was liberating. The experience also helped me to bring out more of my feminine side as I didn't have my hair to make me look girly. I really saw my features and how beautiful I was. I know some persons have to transition, but I think the big chop gives you more of a life lesson than just getting used to this look," she stated.

According to Shanna, who did her BC last year, "The thought of transitioning from relaxed to natural was simply nerve-racking, as this brought back memories of childhood hair-combing which was just painful; but while attending meet-ups I was then made aware of the dos and don'ts of hair care, which made me realise and understand that natural hair is not hard to manage. First, I had to transition mentally then execute boldly by doing the big chop on my birthday, and for me this meant a new reality."

If you think you are ready to do a BC, then ensure that you have thought it through carefully. It may be best to prompt family members and close friends of your intention so that they are prepared for the change. Ensure that you have done research on styling and accessorizing a short head of hair so you feel comfortable and confident rocking your short natural hair.

Next time, we'll talk about how to jazz up your teeny weeny afro after doing the BC.

Curly-centric Jamaica is a natural-hair community hosting meetups which explore styling, care and maintenance of natural hair and black hair overall. Like us on Facebook at Facebook.com/curlycentric! Do you have have comments, stories or questions on natural hair? Ask us at lifestyle@gleanerjm.com.