Alicia Herbert | One year in Jamaica: What this island has taught me

A year ago, I arrived in Jamaica to take up one of the greatest privileges of my career, serving as British high commissioner.

Like anyone beginning a new chapter, I arrived with plenty to learn. I knew something of Jamaica’s remarkable history, its global cultural influence, and the depth of the relationship between our two countries.

But no amount of briefing papers or history books could have prepared me for the warmth of the welcome I received, the richness of the conversations I would have across the island, or the extraordinary pride Jamaicans have in their communities.

Over the past year I have travelled from St James to St Thomas and many places in between. Every parish has its own personality. Everywhere I have gone I have met people who care deeply about their communities and who are determined to build a better future for the next generation.

One lesson has stood out above all others: Jamaica is a country of extraordinary resilience.

I saw that resilience during Hurricane Melissa. Communities came together. First responders worked tirelessly. Neighbours looked after neighbours. The United Kingdom was proud to stand alongside Jamaica during that difficult time, providing humanitarian support while working closely with the Government of Jamaica and our many partners. Crises often reveal the strength of relationships, and I believe our partnership emerged even stronger.

But my memories of this first year are about much more than responding to challenges.

They are about walking through the mangroves in Jackson Bay that the UK government helped to restore. Mangroves that will sustain livelihoods and protect Jamaica’s coastline for future generations.

They are about talking to students and UK-funded scholars who are ambitious and determined to make their mark on the world.

They are about conversations with Jamaican WWII veterans like Mr Senior and Mr Thane, whose courage, sacrifice and commitment helped defend the freedoms and values we continue to cherish today.

They are about meeting entrepreneurs building innovative businesses, artists whose creativity inspires internationally, and members of the Jamaican diaspora whose lives span both sides of the Atlantic.

They are about hearing stories from Jamaicans who spent years living and working in the United Kingdom before returning home, carrying with them friendships, skills and memories that continue to bind our countries together.

They are also about experiencing some of the moments that matter most to Jamaicans. Few events capture the spirit of the country quite like Champs. Sitting among thousands of passionate supporters, watching school rivalries unfold and witnessing the next generation of athletic talent, I quickly understood why this competition occupies such a special place in the national calendar. Jamaica’s success on the world stage begins on tracks and playfields across the island, and it was a privilege to experience that energy first-hand. I look forward to watching future Champs in the new world-class stadium being designed with the help of UK expertise.

One of the joys of diplomacy is discovering that relationships between nations are really relationships between people.

Of course, the United Kingdom and Jamaica do not agree on every issue. Mature friendships rarely do. We continue to have important conversations, including on difficult subjects such as the legacy of slavery and reparatory justice. Those conversations matter because they reflect a modern, evolving relationship built on mutual respect. I have found that Jamaicans value directness, authenticity and a willingness to listen. Those are qualities I hope I have brought to my own engagement over the past year.

At the same time, there is so much that unites us.

Our educational partnerships are helping to equip young people with the skills needed for tomorrow’s economy. Our cooperation on security is making communities safer. We are working together to tackle organised crime, strengthen climate resilience, expand economic opportunities and support innovation. Our universities, businesses, scientists, artists and sportspeople continue to collaborate in ways that enrich both countries.

And then there are the less-formal connections.

Whether it is Premier League football, music, literature, food or the countless family ties linking Britain and Jamaica, there is an ease to our relationship that cannot be manufactured through diplomacy alone. It has been built over generations.

Some of my happiest memories have come from embracing everyday Jamaican life. I quickly developed a fondness for roast yam and saltfish, especially when bought at Melrose Hill Yam Park. It might seem a small thing, but food tells you a great deal about a country. Some of the best conversations I have had over the past year have begun over a plate of food and a shared laugh.

I was also honoured to join Jamaicans in celebrating the nation’s achievements at the Independence Grand Gala. It was an occasion filled with pride, reflection and optimism and a reminder of Jamaica’s remarkable influence on the world. Few countries have shaped global music, sport and culture in quite the same way.

As I begin my second year, I remain optimistic about what lies ahead for the UK-Jamaica partnership.

The challenges are real, as they are everywhere. But so too are the opportunities. The United Kingdom wants to continue being a trusted partner to pursue mutual sustainable economic growth, resilience against climate change and improved security. To strengthen people to people links further and join forces to tackle violence against women and girls in Jamaica and the UK.

My first year has reinforced something I suspected before I arrived, but now know to be true: Jamaica is impossible to understand from a distance. It must be experienced.

For me, it has been a year of learning, listening and building friendships. I am grateful to everyone who has welcomed me into their communities, shared their perspectives, challenged my assumptions, and, on more than one occasion, encouraged me to try just one more piece of jerked chicken or another patty.

Thank you, Jamaica, for an unforgettable first year. I look forward to many more conversations, many more friendships and many more miles on the road in the year ahead.

Alicia Herbert is the British High Commissioner to Jamaica