Chef Noel Cunningham serves up island recipes for ‘Emancipendence’

At the height of his culinary career, Chef Noel Cunningham is passionate about sharing the flavours of Jamaican cuisine. His cooking classes in Canada and the United States have delighted both Jamaicans and curious newcomers, proving as satisfying in delivery as they are in taste.

The award-winning chef, who officially began offering cooking classes in 2019, told Food that teaching became the natural next step in his journey.

“Food is one of the most powerful ways to celebrate identity. As a Jamaican living abroad, I see it as my duty and privilege to represent my culture on every plate I serve. Independence isn’t just about the past; it’s about continuing the legacy. Every time I teach someone how to make patties from scratch or explain the story behind a dish, I’m keeping that legacy alive and building new bridges through flavour,” shared Cunningham.

Whether it’s jerk chicken with a tamarind glaze or a modern twist on cornmeal pudding taught in a cooking class or done before a live studio audience, Cunningham always begins with the Jamaican ingredients and memories he grew up with. His dishes stay rooted in tradition while connecting with a global audience.

“In 2021, my Caribbean cooking class was ranked among the top cooking classes in Toronto, right alongside institutions like George Brown College. And that is truly an honour,” he told Food.

To celebrate his country’s ‘Emancipendence’ season, Chef Cunningham is inviting you to try a few of his recipes that honour classic island treats.

JAMAICAN COCONUT DROPS

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

INGREDIENTS

2 cups water

1 medium coconut, diced

2 cups dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons of ginger, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

DIRECTIONS

Spray a large rimmed baking sheet with non-stick spray. Combine the coconut and all remaining ingredients in a heavy medium saucepan. Stir the mixture over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture comes to a boil for at least 30 minutes.

Boil until the mixture thickens and the temperature registers at 295 degrees Fahrenheit, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Working quickly, drop about two tablespoons of the mixture for each coconut candy onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing them apart. Let stand until cool and firm.

JAMAICAN PLANTAIN TARTS

INGREDIENTS

Pastry:

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup cold butter, cut into 1-centimetre pieces

3 tablespoons shortening, chilled and diced

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon ice-cold water

Filling:

2 very ripe plantains

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 drops red food colouring or 1 beet (optional)

Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon of water)

White sugar for decoration.

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the pastry by combining the flour and salt in a bowl. Rub in the butter and shortening until incorporated and the mixture takes on a sandy texture. Combine the egg and water, then stir it into the flour mixture until a dough forms. Knead a few times to bring the dough together. Wrap and chill in the refrigerator for three hours.

While the dough chills, peel the plantains and cut them into thirds. Place in a small saucepan with a little water. Bring to a simmer and steam until tender for about five to 10 minutes, depending on ripeness. Once soft, drain the water and mash the plantains with sugar, vanilla, nutmeg, and red food colouring. Set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175 degrees Celsius). Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface to six millimetres thick. To yield 24 mini plantain tarts, cut the dough into circles using a four- or five-inch round cookie cutter. Spoon a little of the plantain filling into the centre of each circle, then fold in half to form a half-moon shape. Place the tarts on a baking sheet, brush with the egg wash, and sprinkle with the white sugar. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Allow the tarts to cool to room temperature before serving.

Pro tip: Instead of red food colouring, boil one small beet (beetroot) with the plantain and mash it along with the other ingredients.

COCONUT CORNMEAL PUDDING

INGREDIENTS

2 1/2 cups cornmeal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups coconut milk

3 cups water

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 cup margarine (or butter)

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/2 cup raisins

½ cup shredded coconut

3 tablespoons rum, optional

INGREDIENTS

Topping:

1 cup coconut milk

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. In a mixing bowl, measure and combine all dry ingredients, then set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stir together coconut milk, water, and vanilla. Add margarine, sugar, and raisins one at a time, stirring until the margarine and sugar have dissolved and the liquid is heated.

Remove from heat and add rum, if using. Pour half of the liquid into a mixing bowl with the dry ingredients and stir until smooth. Add the remaining liquid, stirring until there are no lumps and the batter is smooth. Pour the batter into a greased extra-deep nine-inch cake pan, stir in the coconut flakes, then place in the preheated 350 degrees Fahrenheit oven and bake for 30 minutes.

Combine all topping ingredients in a bowl and set aside. Pour the topping over the pudding and place the pan back into the oven for an additional 15 minutes.

krysta.anderson@gleanerjm.com