Amitabh Sharma | Ethical Fashion Initiative – elevating traditional crafts to haute couture

There have been conversations and, of late, they are gaining momentum, on the dark side of fashion. Beyond the glitz and arc light, couture’s ugliness is raising concerns worldwide – from clothes being mass produced in sweatshops in the narrow alleyways of a developing country, to wastage and dumping.

There is a need to encourage, promote, and popularise ethical fashion – a mandate that the Geneva-based International Trade Centre (ITC) is spearheading, with African designers leading the way.

In February, for the sixth consecutive time, the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI) participated in the Lineapelle fair in Milan to present the work of ITC’s social enterprise partners and showcase the craftsmanship of their production network in Kenya and Burkina Faso.

This included works of Tujikuze and Artisan Fashion from Kenya, as well as Cabes GIE from Burkina Faso.

At centrestage were handwoven baskets in natural fibres, bags, sandals made in handwoven up-cycled textiles, and leather goods produced in Kenya, alongside unique handwoven Faso Danfani fabrics in Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)-certified organic and rainfed cotton from Burkina Faso.

For ITC, the aim was to highlight their work in West Africa, which specialises in a range of traditional and sustainable textiles by working with organic cotton to produce handwoven textiles, creating mud cloth, indigo dyeing, tie-dye, and batik techniques, utilising natural dyes, and providing comprehensive cut-and-sew services.

CONNECTING

The EFI is a programme of the International Trade Centre, a joint agency of the United Nations and the World Trade Organization. The Initiative acts as a bridge, connecting marginalised artisan communities in challenging and remote locations with global lifestyle brands.

This year’s highlight was works by talented Ghanaian curator Richmond Orlando Mensah, founder of Manju Journal, who created a stunning atmosphere of deep red tones, perfectly highlighting the beauty of artisanal craftsmanship.

“I first came across the Ethical Fashion Initiative in 2017 through Instagram,” Mensah said about his collaboration with EFI. “... Captivated by their collaborations with Studio 189 and EDUN, I was particularly drawn to EFI’s commitment to sustainable craftsmanship, ethical production, and the empowerment of artisans across Africa.”

Mensah, a creative consultant, director, and cultural curator, specialises in photography, contemporary art, and fashion, with a strong focus on African heritage, innovation, and underrepresented talents. His work bridges African heritage with contemporary narratives through strategic collaborations, connecting progressive brands and institutions to wider, authentic audiences while fostering opportunities for growth.

He outlined his overall vision for the display at Lineapelle, which he envisioned would emphasise craftsmanship, sustainability, and cultural heritage. To achieve this, Mensah adopted a minimalistic approach.

“[I was] inspired by deep red tones derived from natural dyes, the design provided a refined yet immersive setting that resonated with EFI’s ethos,” he said.

CURATED SELECTION

The display showcased a curated selection of ethically crafted accessories, bags, and leather goods, highlighting the skill, innovation, and unique narratives of EFI artisans, particularly from Kenya and Burkina Faso. Every element – from the spatial arrangement to the material choices – was designed to enhance the tactile experience, allowing the craftsmanship to take centrestage. This experience reinforced the impact of thoughtful spatial storytelling in elevating artisanal work to a global audience while fostering deeper engagement with ethical fashion.

In a communiqué, ITC said: “Our participation received enthusiastic feedback, with visitors showing strong interest in the artisans’ work and the stories behind each creation. The Ethical Fashion Initiative’s commitment to sustainability and social impact continues to resonate with industry professionals, reinforcing the relevance of responsible sourcing and authentic craftsmanship in today’s market.

“The participating social enterprises remain open to new collaborations and are ready to receive production orders from fashion brands seeking high-quality, ethically made products.”

On display were the works of Tujikuze, a social impact enterprise based in Kenya, which is known for its game-changing approach to apparel and accessory production for fashion and lifestyle brands and retailers. Tujikuze helps African craftsmanship to connect with global couture. It is on a quest to build a sustainable future for fashion while fostering social and economic change in the communities it supports.

Also featured was CABES (Commerce et Artisanat, pour le Bien Être Social), a network of 91 associations and nearly 2,400 artisans, mostly women, who specialise in transforming GOTS-certified organic cotton into the quintessence of Burkinabe textile Faso Dan Fani. They specialise in traditional West African textiles. Artisan Fashion, founded in 2009 with the support of the EFI in Kenya, produces jewellery, homeware, bags, and accessories for luxury and fashion brands worldwide.

Mensah was both excited at the prospects of artisans like him, as well as the EFI, for providing opportunities in keeping traditional craft relevant in the contemporary world and help them to thrive.

“Their work in bridging heritage techniques with contemporary design while creating meaningful economic opportunities for local communities deeply resonated with my own mission,” Mensah said. “Over the years, I’ve followed their impact on fostering global collaborations, amplifying underrepresented creative voices, and shaping a more responsible fashion ecosystem – one that prioritises both cultural integrity and innovation.”

It takes a village, they say, and the power of collaboration opens doors to endless possibilities. For a saying goes: “Treat the Earth well. It was not given to you by your parents; it was loaned to you by your children.” Traditions, likewise, have to be kept alive for generations to come.

Amitabh Sharma is the opinion editor and editor of Arts and Education. amitabh.sharma@gleanerjm.com; X, formerly Twitter @amitabhs. Background information courtesy International Trade Centre.

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