Pass the Courvoisier

While multiple Grammy Award-nominated rapper Busta Rhymes brought French cognac to mainstream attention with his 2002 hit, Pass the Courvoisier, the spirit’s Global Chief Blender, Thiabut Hontanx, made an impressive mark of his own during a recent visit to The Rock.

As the specially invited guest of The Campari Group’s J Wray and Nephew Jamaica outpost, Hontanx held the select audience in rapt attention a week ago as he delivered a masterclass on the nuances of blending, ageing and flavour profiling of Courvoisier.

“We are really in a transition in the cognac industry,” shared Hontanx, appointed a seventh-generation master blender of the world-famous spirit house founded in 1828 by Felix Courvoisier.

“Courvoisier is shifting a bit from the traditional cognac seen as for old people who are having a digestif to something that is more fun, passionate and open to the younger generation and women. We are seeing a shift in the trend of who our consumers are,” he said in a post-event sit-down with Food.

At the masterclass session, Hontanx — whose 25-year-long journey in the wines and spirits industry began in a whiskey distillery in South Africa – illuminated the room as he offered attendees seated inside twentythree by JWN in New Kingston, with deep insights into the notes of the varietals in the Courvoisier collection.

From the VSOP’s stone fruits, jasmine, and gingerbread, to the XO’s rich crème brûlée, iris flower, and candied orange, and the pear, apple, and grapefruit notes of the VS, the blender gave a walkthrough on the customised double distillation process involved in creating the end product.

The current Courvoisier collection, for which the Campari Group assumed worldwide distribution in November 2024, includes VSOP, XO and VS.

Hontanx also shared with Food the trends he anticipates shaping the future of the industry.

“I think there will be a continued focus on premiumisation and heightened enthusiasm within the cognac industry. At our Maison, I expect more experimentation with blends of older, rarer eaux-de-vie to develop our prestige and ultra-prestige segments of the business.”

Given the rich history of the centuries-old Courvoisier brand, Hontanx is well aware of the weight of importance his master blender position carries. “My responsibility towards the Maison Courvoisier and its past chief blenders is to honour their legacy when crafting existing cognacs. I’m benefitting from the work of my predecessors and must infuse a new blend, such as Courvoisier XO Royal, with the heritage and style of the Maison.”

The luxury brand, which was officially registered in 1843 and built 14 years later, still operates today on the banks of the Charente River in southwestern France.

Cognac is produced from grapes in six legally recognised ‘crus’ or areas in the Cognac region. Courvoisier, according to Hontanx, works with four: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies and Fins Bois. Courvoisier works with around 600 growers and eight distillers to provide the eaux-de-vie required to produce its range of varietals. The ageing procedure for the spirit takes place in a mix of tight and wide-grain French oak barrels.

“It is all about relationships – Courvoisier’s relationships with family-owned estates date back to the start of the 19th century,” explained Hontanx, who shared with Food that the transatlantic trip to host a masterclass was his second time on the island.

“I came two years ago to Montego Bay, but this is my first time in Kingston,” added Hontanx, whose local itinerary included a visit to Appleton Estate in St Elizabeth with local, world-celebrated Master Blender Joy Spence.

“I discovered what’s happening in nightlife here through my colleagues at J Wray and Nephew and went to the Lost in Time music festival, which was a great experience. I love reggae music, and that was a treat.”

As to what’s his preferred Courvoisier pour, he admits to not having a favourite. “I change quite often. At the moment, it’s the VSOP with ginger ale and Angostura bitters.”

lifestyle@gleanerjm.com