EITS Cafe's Mother's Day Brunch signals reopening after six-month closure

"I [felt like a] phoenix rising from the ashes," Robyn Fox reflected on the resilience within her as the reopening of Europe In The Summer (EITS) Café loomed for its Brunch 'n Beats Mother's Day brunch last Sunday.

It had been six months since Hurricane Melissa's ferocious winds and torrential rains ravaged the beloved restaurant in Newcastle, St Andrew.  

The eatery had lost its roofing, power lines had fallen, and sludge from hillside runoff had left mud everywhere on EITS' terrace property, nestled over 4,200 feet above sea level in the folds of the Blue Mountains.

"After the hurricane, we had a bad breakaway up the road. Our catchment for water and our transformers for light were impacted," shared Fox.

"It was a very challenging time. The kitchen flooded and the deck roof flew off, and, because of that, all the electrical wires were torn down. Plus, a meter pole fell down."

Post-Melissa, naturally, momentary heartbreak surfaced for Fox, who initially opened EITS Café 12 years ago with her late father, Michael.

What she never did was doubt for a minute that the eatery would welcome diners again. But first, there was rebuilding to be done.

In undertaking hurricane-proofing, Fox told Food that structural engineers were brought in to assess the property.

In building over the roofs, "We raised them higher to let the wind have space to go through. We put hurricane straps again and used screws as opposed to nails. Also, more uprights were strategically placed where the engineers advised they would be needed for more reinforcement in the future," she added.

The smart renovation also saw the floor of the dual-windowed kitchen being elevated. Further to this, expansive electrical work was also in order, with the restaurateur noting, "All the wires were put through pipes and conduits, so no wires are left exposed".

In between the six-month-long refurbishing exercise, Fox revealed she also ventured into do-it-yourself mode. "I found things to do [with] my time, like the newly tiled mosaic steps; I did those myself."

The support of her employees —all of whom returned to their jobs — and consistent check-ins from well-wishing customers fortified Fox's resolve to move ahead with EITS’ comeback.

"We were prepping for two days for this reopening," she joyously shared on brunch day. The animated conversation continued over sips of welcome libations, sorrel and watermelon spritzers, on the wooden-slatted landing below the upper deck.

"My staff have been so excited because it was a long break for them. The support I got was amazing. I didn't lose any of my staff; they stood right by my side."

A familiar rhythm of bright smiles and tightly squeezed hugs in greeting customers played out across Sunday’s brunch service for Fox. Scores of eager brunch guests were out, many of whom were regulars, akin to extended family for the restaurateur. 

It was a veritable mix of families feting 30-something and 40-something moms, couples' dates, mountain vacationers, and the like. 

On the menu, and cooked with pinches of passion and sprinkles of soul by the EITS team, was a four-course affair. 

Soups for the day were a toss-up between a coconut cream seafood bisque and a pumpkin and ginger-flavoured option. Meanwhile, diners had a trio of starters that included ackee samosas with an escoveitched relish, beef kebabs speared with pineapple, sweet pepper and red onions with a guava glaze or crispy-perfect salt fish fritters with green goddess dressing.

Then, there was the main course, populated with several EITS favourites. Back as star attractions on the buffet line were the coconut curry seafood stew with shrimp, fish and scallops; Irish and sweet potato croquettes; barrel roasted chicken; cooked up ackee with boiled food; and basmati rice with sliced almonds, dried cranberries and caramelised onions. 

Other faves were the seasoned-to-the-bone curry goat and Ital veggie stew.

Desserts to close out mealtime were calorie-temptingly fabulous. On order were ice cream rum cake, sweet potato pudding drizzled with a caramel glaze, or hot-from-the-oven cinnamon buns.

Flying in from The Bahamas for the EITS revival was Annmarie Edwards, Fox's friend from their adolescent days, attending boarding school at Bishop Strachan in Toronto, Canada.

"I am thrilled to be able to support her, and am so proud," declared Edwards, a private client services manager at JTC Group. "I wouldn't even call her my friend; she is my sister."

The two had not seen each other in more than 20 years until Edwards made her first trip to Jamaica back in January. 

"When I came, she explained to me what had happened after the storm and what needed to be done around the property. It's just really nice to see her back up and running. Everything is so vibrant, renovated, and ready to go. I am just happy to be back here again to support her," Edwards told Food. 

The Bahamian is a convert to Jamaican fare. "I think it's really savoury and very filling. You can tell Robyn has a solid team that loves her. You can feel that, you can see [that] in how they are bussing from table to table, everything is done with care. It's a really conscientious effort to put a good step forward now that they are open again."

Complimentary reviews also came from London-based financier Christo Rick, who was vacationing in the Blue Mountains and discovered EITS on a morning drive with fellow traveller Leila Delhibi.

"We saw this space and got excited to see what it was like. It was a brilliant choice," he raved. 

"The drinks were fantastic, and I loved the atmosphere, the people, and the views. It is my first trip to Jamaica, and this [experience] lives up to it."

Glad to be back serving customers was EITS waitress Judene Nelson-Adams, a resident of the nearby Irish Town district, who has been in Fox's employ for the past three years.

"With the reopening, I felt so grateful and relieved, especially after seeing how much damage Hurricane Melissa caused. Getting back into my weekend routine and seeing familiar co-workers, and welcoming customers again to EITS, I felt so proud," shared Nelson-Adams, who also works as a clerical assistant at the Craighton Primary School in Irish Town.

She is most happy for the resumption of the weekend energy that the restaurant brings to the community. "I love hearing people talking and laughing, and the plates clinking and the busy rush during meal times. Above all, I missed my co-workers and regular customers."

The Mother's Day Brunch 'n Beats at EITS featured a curated soundscape of deejays, music artistes, and performers. The roster of acts included drummers from the School of Vision, violinist Ziah .Push, and turntablists Richie Supreme,  Karem Remus Burrell of Xterminator Sound, and Biko 'Di Universal Ear'.

EITS Café is ready to welcome diners from Fridays to Mondays. 

lifestyle@gleanerjm.com

Photos by Trevenio Cole and Vedriti Studios.