Letter of the Day | Time to rethink Jamaica’s national dish

THE EDITOR, Madam:

Jamaica’s national dish, ackee and salt fish, is beloved for its rich flavour and deep cultural significance. Ackee, a fruit native to West Africa, was brought to Jamaica in the 1700s during the transatlantic slave trade. Salt fish, also known as salt cod or codfish, has been preserved through salting for over 500 years, a practice that predates refrigeration. While ackee is grown locally, salt fish is not. Cod is a cold-water fish, primarily found in the frigid waters of Norway, Iceland, and Canada, not in the Caribbean Sea.

Traditionally, ackee and salt fish are sautéed with onions, sweet peppers, thyme, tomatoes, garlic, and local spices, and served alongside staples like boiled green bananas, dumplings, fried plantains, or roasted breadfruit. The dish is undeniably flavourful and steeped in history. Yet, as delicious and symbolic as it may be, the time has come to reconsider Jamaica’s national dish. Here’s why.

First, salt fish is imported, despite Jamaica being an island surrounded by the abundant Caribbean Sea. Why should our national dish rely on fish from across the Atlantic when our waters teem with local species, like snapper, grunts, parrotfish, and lionfish? The Caribbean imports around 53 million pounds of salt fish annually, with Jamaica ranking as the second-highest consumer of salt fish per capita worldwide. A staggering 80 per cent of that fish comes from Norway.

Furthermore, the cod population is declining rapidly due to overfishing, and some experts warn that it could be wiped out in the foreseeable future. This raises serious questions about sustainability. Salt fish arrived in Jamaica as a byproduct of colonial exploitation and the slave trade. We are no longer bound by those historical chains. It’s time our culinary identity reflects our independence, our ecosystem, and our present values.

DIETARY IMBALANCE

There’s also a public health concern. Salt fish is heavily salted for preservation, contributing to high sodium intake. Excess sodium is a known contributor to high blood pressure, a condition that affects a significant portion of the Jamaican population and increases the risk of heart disease and stroke. Our national dish, while iconic, plays a role in this dietary imbalance.

As a people, we should prioritise eating what we grow and catch locally. Choosing Caribbean fish over imported cod means supporting local fishermen, preserving our marine environment, and protecting our health.

Jamaica’s culinary traditions deserve to evolve. We can honour our roots while embracing progress. Let’s start by updating our national dish, preserving its essence while making it healthier, more sustainable, and truly representative of our island and our future. A modern Jamaican diet must nourish our bodies as much as it reflects our culture.

Ackee and salt fish is a cherished Jamaican classic, but it’s time to let it go. Let’s serve ourselves better. Let’s modify the national dish, one bite at a time.

TM